Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo Autumn/Winter 2025 was held from March 17 to March 22, 2025, featuring a diverse lineup of 37 brands showcasing their latest collections, infused with the habitual Japanese oddity that gradually acquired layered notes of allusive sensuality. 

Speaking volumes 

Viviano, Chika Kisada 

Weird, voluminous shapes remain a defining element in the visual lexicon of iconic Japanese maisons like Junya Watanabe and Rei Kawakubo. Their avant-garde, sculptural approach to garment construction has continuously influenced contemporary designers, who reinterpret these proportions through their own distinctive lenses. One striking example therefore marks, the immense, metallic dress resembling crinkled aluminum foil, cinched with a dramatic bow at the neck, that draws strong parallels to Demna’s exploration of monumental silhouettes for Balenciaga, evoking both armor-like rigidity and theatrical extravagance. Equally transformative is the second look – layered composition of sheer black tulle and mustard yellow chiffon. The interplay of transparency and structure redefines the body’s outline, creating tension between fragility and control. Its dramatic, almost disheveled elegance under the dim runway lighting inevitably recalls the haunting atmosphere of John Galliano’s recent Margiela Artisanal Couture Spring 2024 collection, where garments act as evolving entities rather than static pieces, slightly playing with the viewer’s perception of reality and fantasy.  

Both ensembles strive to channel the experimental ethos of their Japanese predecessors, pushing fashion beyond functionality into the realm of conceptual artistry. 

Intellectual layering 

KEISUKEYOSHIDA, Telma 

The most relevant manifestations of intellectual fashion formula, epitomized in the mutual vision of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, particularly through their collaborative work at Prada and the signature Miu Miu aesthetic – has been equally developed and channeled by other creative counterparts. The language revolving around an intentional embrace of the old-fashioned, smart, and purposefully unpolished—where retro-futurism feels at once awkward and weirdly sensual, depicting carefully calibrated unattractiveness, infused with erudition and irony – has become the supreme formula for an unparalleled, idiosyncratic allure. 

Unsurprisingly, this clever, erudite aesthetic seems to have found resonance beyond its Western cradle, poignantly migrating into Eastern interpretations as well. A prime example is the seemingly eclectic, yet masterfully composed ensemble consisting of a turquoise, shiny leather parka layered over a long, plain white T-shirt, paired with straight-cut blue jeans, a satin dirty-lavender tone skirt peeking beneath, a long checked scarf, casually draped, and a small, retro-inspired handbag. The outfit reads as both nonchalant and exquisitely curated, encapsulating the deliberate awkwardness that paradoxically results in effortless sophistication. 

Similarly, the intellectual and spontaneous sensuality is continued in the second look: a khaki, mid-length utilitarian jacket juxtaposed against a pale-blue lace nightdress, printed thin leggings, a sporty backpack, and black stiletto heels. The tension between functional and frivolous, masculine and feminine, daywear and nightwear, speaks volumes of a cultivated, almost incomprehensible styling strategy – where contradiction becomes seduction. The third look adheres to the same strategic blueprint. A structured, white-and-brown aviator-inspired leather jacket, with a buttoned-up high collar and an unzipped lower half, offers a glimpse of an intricately printed purple-tone motif on a simple white cotton dress. Thick grey tights and classic black heels ground the look, which transcends conventional notions of ‘good dressing’ by merging utilitarian references with an intellectual playfulness. 

Odd textures and prints blends 

Viviano, Chika Kisada, Fetico 

Eye-catching and contrasting combinations of textures and prints shape an emerging trend, evolving from the softer, Harajuku-inspired aesthetics, reinterpreted through a contemporary lens infused with Western influences. Distinctive hairstyles and daring, yet cohesive pairings—such as a sky-blue fluffy skirt matched with a brown leather bomber jacket and orange-lens sunglasses – implicitly set the tone. This eclectic spirit is continued with a grandiose, voluminous A-line dress adorned with pink floral prints and matching floral hair embellishments, amplifying the visual impact. Equally inspiring stand looks like an oversized beige alpaca sweater with strategic side splits, revealing a black chiffon balloon skirt layered over white underskirts, styled with a quirky handbag and masculine loafers, where deliberately “forbidden-length” socks, add unexpected charm. Another standout ensemble featured a thick brown tracksuit-inspired jacket, black leather gloves, and a balaclava-style headscarf, balanced by the delicacy of the lower half—white tights with embroidered patterns and a soft pink chiffon train trailing behind. A masterful and intuitive play of colors, textures and patterns, without a doubt. 

In love with fabric manipulation 

Pillings, Hatra 

Known for their irrefutable embrace of deconstructivism, almost embedded in their creative DNA, Tokyo Fashion Week featured brands that demonstrated a masterful command of fabric manipulation. Designers proved to explore a wide spectrum of techniques – from trompe-l’oeil effects on sheer, cape-like gowns to unexpectedly draped skirts and intricate tailoring. The collections stood out through original details: socks-inspired insertions seamlessly integrated into garments, overlapping double sweaters adorned with Nordic motifs, and cleverly subverted silhouettes, all reinforcing Tokyo’s reputation as a hub for avant-garde experimentation and technical prowess. 

Whether through avant-garde tailoring, playful textures, or nostalgic references reimagined for the present, Tokyo AW stood as a testament to the city’s commitment to pushing creative boundaries. It reaffirmed its role, once again, not only as a hub for intricate craftsmanship, but also as a visionary space where unconventional beauty seamlessly seems to meet intellectual depth. 

Photo credits: Vogue Runway