Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci: a bold london tribute in his most recent collection

As Gucci’s newest creative lead, De Sarno navigates through criticism with a bold showcase at Tate Modern.

Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s newly appointed creative director, recently marked his presence with a defining collection showcased on a chilly Monday night at London’s Tate Modern. Despite facing a mixed reception and the mounting pressures of the fashion industry, De Sarno’s latest presentation seemed to echo a confident reply to his critics, demonstrating his resilience and unwavering vision for the iconic brand.

This was no ordinary venue choice; The Tanks at Tate Modern provided a stark, shadowy backdrop that contrasted dramatically with the vivid, eclectic designs on display. The choice of location continued Gucci’s narrative of connecting deeply with London, a city that has played a pivotal role in both the brand’s and De Sarno’s personal fashion journey. It was here, a century ago, that Guccio Gucci drew inspiration to cultivate what would become a globally revered luxury fashion house.

The show, perceived by De Sarno as the final act in a thematic trilogy of desirability, sensuality, and now, a complex blend of romance and contradiction, didn’t shy away from bold contrasts and vibrant clashes. The collection interplayed lilac with mustard, blending soft organza with rugged leather—each piece challenging conventional tastes while dialoguing with London’s inherent contrasts and freedoms.

The runway resonated with a distinctly London-esque energy, albeit with occasional pacing issues that seemed to drag the momentum. Nonetheless, elements like a fluorescent green lace bra beneath a stark white poplin shirt and a pink duchesse bustier adorned with cascading green bugle beads told stories of bold independence and a cheeky defiance of the norm.

Music played a crucial role in amplifying the thematic essence of the show, with Debbie Harry’s “Heart of Glass” remixed with Philip Glass providing a soundtrack that melded with the urban spirit of New York, an intriguing juxtaposition to De Sarno’s professed love for London. This musical choice, however, sparked comparisons to Harry’s past affiliations with Coach, drawing parallels that might not flatter but certainly sparked conversation.

The finale was a poignant moment, as “The Power of Love” by Frankie Goes to Hollywood filled the space, augmenting the emotional weight of the show. The presence of film stars Andrew Scott and Paul Mescal added a layer of cinematic gravitas to the event, blending pop culture with high fashion in a memorably moving tableau.

Yet, amidst the spectacle and the undeniable craftsmanship displayed, questions linger about De Sarno’s directional intentions for Gucci and whom he envisions as his audience. The collection’s duality was evident, wrapped in the metaphor of man and nature—an elemental theme presented amidst a lush backdrop of greenery that filled the vast concrete Tanks.

As the fashion world continues to dissect Sabato De Sarno’s evolving narrative at Gucci, this collection will undoubtedly be remembered for its audacious spirit and heartfelt nod to London’s historical and ongoing influence on global fashion trends. With this latest showcase, De Sarno not only pays homage but also propels Gucci into a new era, one that respects its heritage while daring to disrupt and redefine what luxury fashion can be.

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