In a surprising development, Peter Hawkings, who became the creative director at Tom Ford in 2023, has left the company. Estée Lauder Companies, the owner of Tom Ford, announced Hawkings’ departure on Monday, ensuring that a successor will be appointed soon. This significant change occurs as the brand prepares for its Spring-Summer 2025 collection showcase in Milan this September.
Hawkings has been a vital part of the Tom Ford brand for over two decades. Starting as a key deputy under Tom Ford himself, he played a crucial role in launching Tom Ford Menswear in 2006 and eventually rose to the position of senior vice president. Following the sale of the brand to Estée Lauder for $2.8 billion, Hawkings took on the top creative role, steering the brand through its transition under new ownership and forming a strategic partnership with the Italian group Zegna.
Hawkings’ initial collections honored Ford’s iconic designs from his Gucci era, featuring bold pieces like leather micro-shorts and hip-hugging skirts. Subsequent collections focused on commercially viable outerwear, with military-inspired peacoats and leather trenches. While some collections received high praise for their vibrant energy, others were criticized for lacking the daring edge that Ford was known for.
Despite mixed reviews, Hawkings maintained a high level of celebrity attendance at his shows, comparable to the days when Tom Ford himself was leading the brand. His departure leaves a significant gap as Zegna and Estée Lauder continue their strategic plans for the brand, which include doubling store counts and relaunching womenswear with a focus on handbags to drive growth and profitability.
Financially, Tom Ford has shown promising performance under Zegna’s management. In the first quarter of 2024, the fashion unit reported €65 million in sales, with strong results in the United States. However, a slowdown in global luxury demand poses challenges, and the transition to a new creative director could introduce uncertainties.
The fashion industry is buzzing with speculation about who will take over the creative leadership at Tom Ford. As the brand moves into its next phase, stakeholders and fans eagerly await the announcement of Hawkings’ successor, hoping for a new leader who can bring fresh energy and continue the brand’s legacy.