This week, the fashion world turns its gaze to London and Milan, where the runways are set to tell a story of transition, tension, and transformation. As the industry grapples with how to reignite consumer excitement and break free from its current slump, the shows promise a delicate balance between honoring luxury’s storied past and hinting at its uncertain future.
London Fashion Week kicks off with a mix of nostalgia and anticipation. On Monday, all eyes will be on Daniel Lee as he presents his latest collection for Burberry. Rumors swirl that this could be his swan song for the iconic British brand, which has recently doubled down on its heritage—think trench coats and quintessential Britishness—leaving little room for Lee’s bold, modern vision. Meanwhile, for those seeking a glimpse of fashion’s future, rising star Paolo Carzana is one to watch. His commitment to slow fashion, natural materials, and hand-dyeing techniques offers a refreshing counterpoint to the industry’s fast-paced excess.
Over in Milan, the narrative is no less dramatic. Gucci, traditionally the opener of Milan Fashion Week, will present a collection from its design team following the abrupt departure of creative director Sabato De Sarno earlier this month. The absence of Bottega Veneta from the schedule adds to the sense of upheaval, as Louise Trotter settles into her new role. Meanwhile, speculation about designer musical chairs continues to swirl around Jil Sander and Bally.
Amid the chaos, a few pillars of stability remain. Diesel and Prada will showcase their collections midweek, offering a sense of continuity in an otherwise turbulent season. Prada’s executives, fresh from analyzing Versace’s financials, can take a breather to admire Donatella Versace’s latest creations. The week also features a trio of milestone celebrations: Dsquared2 marks 30 years, Fendi celebrates an astonishing 100 years (with Silvia Venturini Fendi now at the creative helm), and Armani commemorates 50 years in the industry.
As Milan reflects on its rich history, the question lingers: what’s next for fashion? This week’s shows may not provide all the answers, but they’ll certainly offer plenty of clues.
