Diesel’s Pre-Spring 25 collection starts with second-skin intimate wear and goes all the way to subversions of tailoring. This is Diesel for all day and all night, for every situation, continuing to expand the brand vision of Creative Director Glenn Martens. With the pre-collection, runway concepts become accessible pieces, an ongoing act of true fashion democracy.
“This is a collection that blurs boundaries: Is it smart tailoring or casual? Is it a denim piece or is it trompe l’oeil? And with our new lingerie pieces, is it about an intimate article or ready-to-wear? Diesel defies all conventions, deviating from the norm to live by its own rules—this is the path to successful living,” says Glenn Martens, Diesel’s creative director.
The wool tailoring pieces are covered with a glossy layer, to create a dual effect: matte wool on the back and a glossy finish on the front. This treatment can be found on items such as coats, blazers, and trousers, while plaid cotton shirts are also glossed on the front. Meanwhile, a leather dress with a front zipper and long sleeves has a jersey back and is worn with jersey leggings printed to look exactly like skinny jeans.
Denim blazers show prints in specific areas to look like fine stripes, thus continuing the subversion of tailoring. It’s part of Diesel’s vision for the three-piece suit, combined with a zippered denim vest and a mini skirt, both partially printed with fine stripes. Another three-piece suit looks like denim but is actually made of jersey: a hoodie cinched at the waist, worn over a polo shirt and matched with joggers.
Diesel pushes innovation in fabrics to the next level, to create the most wearable pieces, such as a fleece zip jacket that looks like denim, perfect to be worn with jersey leggings that mimic skinny jeans. Meanwhile, the boucle is actually denim, used for making a city coat, for a sweater, and for baggy trousers. Jacquards that look like denim often place wear effects in areas that normally do not erode, like a jacquard with wear effect at the waist and above the chest.
Ideas straight from the Diesel runway are everywhere, such as belt-bags that become pieces of clothing like crop-tops, bra tops, and mini skirts. Intimate apparel becomes visible when jersey dresses, sleeveless tops, cardigans, and skirts are finished and supported by the stitching of bras, bikinis, or corsets. Meanwhile, knits feature bold colors that refer to punk hair styles.
Prints stand out more than ever, such as one that captures in detail a strong light, or a foil print that is pleated or cracked to create a tearing effect. Floral prints on shirts and worn skirts toy with the idea of politeness, while prints designed by Berlin tattoo artist Sagflap display a distorted fantasy.
Utility pieces for city life include leather jackets with zippers and large pockets or bleached denim cardigans with zippers, vests, and dresses that have attached utility denim pockets. But, in fact, the intimate apparel is the most utilitarian of all. Alongside the new Diesel lingerie pieces, like leggings, there is also denim-effect lingerie in the pre-collection, such as vests, mini skirts, long-sleeved tops, and dresses.
Boots and high-heeled shoes have prints on transparent mesh, with a metallic stiletto heel and a metallic D on the back of the heel; the same styles are available in glossy black patent. Denim loafers have a worn look, while baseball sneakers appear as if they are already worn.
The Play bag is available in new colors, each actually a photographic print: blue sky, red roses, pink sweets, green grass. Meanwhile, the new Scrunch-D bag, which debuted at the FW24 presentation, is showcased in glossy black patent. Charm pendants in the shape of miniature Diesel bags are attached to other bags.
