MILAN, September 27, 2025. Versace opens a new chapter. The house’s new creative director, Dario Vitale, unveiled in Milan a collection built on the tension between control and abandon: lucid sensuality, ’80s–’90s references filtered through a contemporary lens, elongated proportions and “undone” details without sacrificing rigour.
Setup & format
The show took place in a 17th-century Milanese palazzo, framed by a deliberately “unsaid” domestic set an unmade bed, everyday objects to charge the idea of bourgeois, imperfect beauty. The soundtrack moved through iconic tracks (George Michael, Prince, Eurythmics), reinforcing the dialogue with the house archive.
Leadership shift
Vitale’s debut marks the first time a designer from outside the family leads Versace’s creative direction. Donatella Versace ends nearly three decades at the helm and continues as Chief Brand Ambassador, ensuring continuity with the house’s spirit and heritage.
The new aesthetic
The SS26 collection reorders Versace’s DNA in a more sensory, less theatrical key:
- Controlled “undoing”: intentionally loosened belts, side-cut T-shirts, half-open shirts.
- Silhouette & proportions: slouchy tailoring with a defined waist, elongated lines, backless dresses highlighting back and shoulders.
- Archive reinterpreted: pops of primary colours, sculpted shoulders, a tempered glamour without pastiche.
Key runway pieces
- Polished denim with high waist
- Black backless dresses with sculptural jewellery
- Relaxed tailoring with “undone” belts
- Monochrome red sets
- Minimal bustiers and compact city bags
Styling & mood
The “after a hurried night out” vibe encoded via unfastened accessories was balanced by clean, atelier-level execution. The show’s rhythm focused on proximity to the body and gestures legible for real life rather than spectacle.
Business context
The presentation unfolded against the backdrop of the agreement through which Prada Group will acquire Versace from Capri Holdings. The transition builds expectations for tighter operational discipline and a stronger alignment between image and product.
Donatella Versace today
As the house’s emblematic figure, Donatella remains the bridge between the new creative direction and Versace’s legacy. Her ambassador role safeguards the brand’s narrative coherence with the public and the industry.
What’s next
If SS26 is the template of the new era, Versace aims for a balance between image-driven looks (red-carpet ready) and commercial impact pieces: high-waist denim, backless dresses, relaxed tailoring. The next seasons will test the consistency and breadth of this vocabulary.
