Paris Fashion Week was abuzz with anticipation as Seán McGirr unveiled his inaugural collection for Alexander McQueen, marking a new chapter for the iconic brand with the Fall/Winter 2024 lineup. The fashion world watched closely as McGirr steered the storied house into new yet somewhat familiar territories, blending reverence for its heritage with bold new directions.
Assuming the role of Creative Director in October last year, McGirr brought his rich background from JW Anderson and his experiences with Dries Van Noten and Christophe Lemaire to the fore. His academic roots at Central Saint Martins, where he once drew inspiration from McQueen’s own groundbreaking work, now inform his creative ethos at McQueen, particularly reflecting on the impactful “Horn of Plenty” and “Plato’s Atlantis” collections.
The prelude to the show was a striking video campaign set in an ancient pine forest, where models adorned with skull masks evoked the McQueen legacy of blending the macabre with the magnificent. This homage was further symbolized by the redesigned Alexander McQueen logo, intertwining past and present.
In preparation for FW24, a collaboration with illustrator Ralph Steadman introduced a reimagined McQueen Arrow Pin, hinting at the collection’s inventive spirit. The choice of the Olympiades Food Market in Paris’ China Town for the show venue underscored McGirr’s affinity for unconventional spaces, echoing McQueen’s preference for showcasing fashion amidst raw, contrasting backdrops.
The collection itself was a thoughtful nod to McQueen’s history, with runway designs and accessories echoing elements from past shows, including the rounded shoulders of tailored jackets and the distinctive use of metal T-bar jewelry. Yet, McGirr’s vision was not merely retrospective; it boldly proposed a new archetype for the Alexander McQueen man—confident, modern, and willing to challenge sartorial norms.
This blend of homage and innovation encapsulates McGirr’s debut: a respect for the McQueen legacy coupled with a forward-looking approach to fashion design. As McGirr embarks on this new journey, the fashion industry eagerly watches, ready to embrace a new era for Alexander McQueen that honors its past while boldly striding into the future.