Whether the growing uncertainty or frustration surrounding the constant game of musical chairs in the fashion industry has reached you yet, let’s take a moment to survey some of the most recent seatings — and the visions they’ve unveiled. 

David Koma at Blumarine 

David Koma introduced his interpretation at Blumarine with a restrained, signature palette: stark black, crisp white, and bold red, punctuated occasionally by discreet multicolored floral inserts and, inevitably, denim. His debut felt light yet romantically charged, not far removed from the feminine aesthetic universe he has cultivated at his eponymous brand. 

Staying true to Blumarine’s DNA of humble sensuality, Koma pushed the narrative toward a more controlled, refined expression — some might even say mature — while maintaining the familiar framework of boho-cool teenage rebellion. The house’s emblematic flower motif was reworked into metallic statement belts, shoe embellishments, and unobtrusive prints. Yet, notably, one signature element seemed deliberately obscured: the butterfly, glimpsed fleetingly beneath a silk bow tied at the neck or imprinted casually in rhinestones on a pair of black slips. 

“I wanted to keep this tension between fluidity and structure across the collection, staying true to my strong handwriting. The house’s heritage is there, but I really wanted the collection to feel that I have it under control.” 

While Koma demonstrated clear awareness of the brand’s past accents and frivolous theatrics — such as the infamous lingerie-exposed styling — he visibly moved to minimize the naïveté that previously defined the label. His decision to exclude certain codes subtly broadens the brand’s appeal beyond its Gen-Z-heavy demographic. The question, however, remains: in redirecting Blumarine’s potential toward a wider market, how will he avoid blurring the lines between the house’s identity and his own established label’s aesthetic? 

Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford 

For devotees of Tom Ford’s original brand codes, Haider Ackermann’s arrival offers a sense of restoration. Ford himself publicly expressed his satisfaction with Ackermann’s appointment, and the debut collection felt like a deliberate homage to Ford’s legacy, refreshed with emotive precision. 

‘’I don’t understand the word glamour’’ 

The collection echoed Ford’s lexicon: saturated hues, sleek hair, black leather, perfectly tailored suits, red lipstick, and neon eyeshadow — all infused with the sensual glamour that once defined the label. Yet Ackermann allowed for some calculated deviations. His asymmetrical skirt with a side slit and the bathrobe iteration introduced a softened fluidity, contrasting Ford’s strict sensuality. Rather than undermining the founder’s legacy, these touches recast Ford’s famed erotic drama into a contemporary context, successfully reviving the label’s early 2000s allure for a new era. 

Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten 

After a prolonged period of transition following Dries Van Noten’s monumental departure — marked by studio-led collections and reflective homage — Julian Klausner’s debut signaled a confident new chapter. His presentation retained the house’s hallmark eclecticism: inventive prints, tactile textures, and an unconventional approach to accessories. 

“I wanted to let my imagination go a bit and I wanted to go kind of strong with some pieces. But I always had in mind it’s about a wardrobe, and these pieces should exist in real life, and there should be flexibility to how you wear them.” 

Headbands recalling the 1920s, tassel details on coats waists and sleeveless dresses, shoelaces stitched into coats, and necklace-integrated collars were all reassuring signals of continuity. But beyond this familiar language, Klausner’s potential shone through. The standout cocoon coat served as an intrinsic statement, suggesting that while he honors the brand’s DNA, he is prepared to infuse it with his own creative authority. 

Sarah Burton at Givenchy 

Sarah Burton’s move to Givenchy carries with it both high expectations and considerable responsibility. Having revitalized Alexander McQueen over the past decade, she now steps into a similarly pivotal role. Her debut at Givenchy leaned into minimal styling and simplicity, yet still left quite an impression, as she does not settle for the little. 

“it has to be 360 for me.” 

Each piece demonstrated a careful balance between commercial viability and quiet craftsmanship. Padded shoulders cinching the waist, gradient suits, leather halter-neck gowns, and heart-shaped bustiers were offset by unexpected gestures: a top composed of oversized jewels, a dress covered entirely in makeup palettes. Burton’s signature commitment to detail was evident, offering subtle sophistication rather than overt experimentation. The result was a coherent, intelligently constructed collection, one that suggests Givenchy is in capable hands, guided by her adaptability and resourcefulness. 

Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein 

Appointed to revive Calvin Klein’s runway relevance after a prolonged absence, Rome-based Veronica Leoni approached the task with strategic clarity. Known for her work at Jil Sander, she opted to channel 90s minimalism, crafting a collection defined by clean lines, sharpness, pared-down tailoring, and raw simplicity. 

“I really tried to connect with his original energy, and we really tried to explore a 24/7 wardrobe, to give it a cinematic and a real reality,” 

Critics noted its powerful resemblance to fellow purveyors of luxe minimalism — The Row, Celine, Toteme — yet the collection was received with genuine enthusiasm. Leoni’s decision to avoid unnecessary ornamentation and focus on instinctual choices in color, silhouette, and accessories positioned Calvin Klein’s DNA firmly within a modern context. By rejecting pretensions of radical reinvention, she ensured the brand’s relevance while projecting an ambitious, globally resonant image. 

In an industry increasingly marked by designer turnovers and strategic appointments, the task facing these new creative leads is not only to reinterpret each brand’s foundational codes but also to ensure their relevance and longevity. Whether through calculated restraint, nostalgic revival, or subtle rebellion, each designer here exemplifies how the delicate interplay between heritage and innovation continues to shape the fashion landscape — and determine who will successfully guide and propel these iconic houses for the long-term future (hopefully also them!). 

Photo credits: Vogue Runway