Alessandro Michele, the star designer behind Valentino, made his highly anticipated couture debut in Paris, but this was no ordinary fashion show. Instead of a traditional runway, Michele delivered a multimedia extravaganza that blurred the lines between fashion, theater, and art. The result? A collection that felt more like a costume drama than a couture presentation—a bold, immersive experience that left the audience both dazzled and divided.
Held at the Palais Brongniart, the show was a sensory overload: pitch-black darkness, stadium-style seating, and a soundtrack of blaring sounds paired with blinding lights. Each of the 48 looks was introduced not by a model’s walk, but by a screen displaying a list of words describing the outfit—a concept inspired by Umberto Eco’s essay on the “vertigo of the list.” The effect was dizzying, almost overwhelming, as if Michele wanted to challenge the very idea of what a couture show could be.
The clothes themselves were equally theatrical. Think crinolines, floating capes, harlequin patterns, and pierrot-inspired regalia—each piece more dramatic and opulent than the last. Michele’s love for costume design shone through, as he admitted in a post-show press conference: “When I was a kid, I wanted to be a costume designer—and I think it shows in what I do.”
But here’s the catch: while the collection thrived as part of the performance, it struggled to stand on its own as wearable couture. The exquisite craftsmanship of Valentino’s atelier was undeniable, but many pieces felt more suited to the stage than to the real world. Michele’s work has always been about storytelling, and this collection was no exception, drawing inspiration from costume designer Danilo Donati, historic paintings, Vivienne Westwood, Leigh Bowery, and even a touch of Demna, who was spotted in the audience.
So, was it a triumph or a misstep? That depends on how you view fashion. If you see it as an art form meant to provoke and inspire, Michele’s debut was a masterstroke. But if you were hoping for timeless, wearable couture, the collection might have left you wanting more.
What’s clear is that Alessandro Michele isn’t afraid to take risks. His Valentino couture debut wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a statement, a performance, and a celebration of creativity in its most extravagant form.
Curious to see how Michele redefined couture? Dive into the details of his groundbreaking show and decide for yourself whether this was a visionary leap or a step too far. Open the article and explore the spectacle that has everyone talking.
